Low-maintenance
decking is good news. Traditional wood decks look great, but you have
to refinish or reseal them every few years to keep them looking that
way. Low-maintenance alternatives now promise much of the same look and
feel of wood, but without the worry that they'll crack, split or warp
if you neglect them.
Wood composites made of mixtures of wood
fiber and plastic are leading the way. There are also vinyl and aluminum
decking options that require even less maintenance than composites.
If you like the look
of a traditional wood deck, solid composites are for you. They imitate
the look, feel and
workability of wood decks. They're roughly the same size— about
1 to 1-1/4 in. thick and 5-1/2 in. wide. They're tough and durable,
and they resist
insects and rot. The finished deck will have a solid feel underfoot
with minimal flex.
Every composite board is identical and
flat, without twists, warps or knots to slow installation time. However,
composites
may require an annual cleaning to remove mildew and dirt. They aren't
structural so you will need to use wood joists and beams. Solid composites
are heavy, they're a chore to handle if you're working alone.
Working with it
If you're accustomed to working
with wood, it's easy to make the transition to solid composites. You
can cut a board with a circular saw, round over
the edge to a bull nose with a router and soften the ends or erase
a scratch with a sander. Use a 24-tooth carbide circular saw blade
and carbide router
bits (high-speed steel dulls quickly). Frame your deck with pressure-
treated wood joists 16 in. on center (12 in. o.c. if you set the decking
at a 45-degree
angle).
Fastening
Solid composites are tough, so
driving the fasteners requires some effort. Use either 2-1/2 in. screws
or 2-1/2 in. nails. Most screws cause the surface
to bulge or mushroom. Pre-drilling and countersinking a hole before
driving the screw can lessen this problem.
Special
features
Composites are surprisingly flexible, making them ideal for decks with curves.
Here are a few tips for bending boards:
• Composites are more flexible when warm.
• Use clamps to draw the board to the curve, then secure it with deck screws.
• Some brands will bend easier than others.
Ask your supplier for details if you're thinking
about a curved deck. Solid composites also work well for a ground-level
deck where there's high moisture and minimal airflow. They'll resist
cupping and warping and won't rot.
Other composite varieties
Other styles include profiles
that are hollow and thinner and connect with tongue and grooves. Consider
one of these systems if you want a lighter-weight
composite, a tightly spaced appearance or a simple hidden fastening
system that eliminates gaps and allow you to hide the screws as well
as drive fewer of
them. Several styles are stiffer and can span joists on 24-in. centers.
However, each system
has "need-to-know
details" to make the job successful, including how to cover
the ends of the boards, how to rip boards, where to start the first
board
and where and how to fasten them. Many require at least a 12-in.
air space under the deck for ventilation. Study the details of each
system
at the lumberyard or home center before buying.
Working with it
Like the solid versions, these composites are cut with normal carpentry tools.
Installation details vary by brand; study them before you start. Ripped boards
may require reinforcement. Cover the ends with special trim pieces from the
manufacturer or a trim board. If using tongue-and-groove boards, slope the
framing 1/2 in. over 8 ft. to drain any water away from the house, and run
the decking perpendicular to the house if possible.
Vinyl
Vinyl requires
even less maintenance than composites. Simply rinse it down with
a garden hose and you've
got a fresh, clean
look. Colors (tan, white and gray) resist fading much better too.
It's lightweight and most brands have a hidden fastening
method, usually screws
that you fasten to a treated wood frame. Vinyl won’t look
or feel like wood or the composites. When you walk across the deck,
there's a
lighter, hollow sound. It blends well with vinyl siding.
Working
with it
Although not difficult to install, vinyl systems aren't as versatile
as composites. While you can cut it with a circular saw, installing it
is more of an assembly project. You'll need special end caps and other
detail pieces. You have to plan carefully. Vinyl railings that complement
the deck are also available. Many manufacturers back the vinyl with lifetime
warranties.
Aluminum decking
If you want a dry space under a deck and a maintenance-free,
lifetime deck surface, aluminum is a really cool option. It doesn't
look like a traditional wood deck, however. It’s a heavy gauge metal
with a coated finish available in white, gray, almond and tan. The “boards” interlock
into a gutter system that catches water and channels it away.
Since it’s
a kit-type system, you have to order all of the parts. Railing kits
are available. Aluminum
decking
can span joists up to 30 in. o.c., but it feels extremely stiff underfoot.
It's not as hot in direct sunlight as you might think; the light
colors reflect the sun and aluminum disperses heat very well.
Working with it
You screw aluminum decking to standard treated
wood framing, set to slope at least 1/8 in. per foot away from the house.
You'll need special starting and finishing pieces, as well as trim pieces
to cover the ends. You can cut aluminum with a circular saw equipped
with a 40-tooth nonferrous metal-cutting blade, but it's slow and loud.
If possible, avoid cutting by framing your deck to accommodate full-length
deck panels, and stick to simple, rectangular decks.
